An often-overlooked environment, the cliffs and their sloping bases provide safe harbor for many marine species to rest and raise their offspring. The vertical cliffs create safe nesting areas for Brandt’s Cormorants, sea gulls, and falcons. Their sloping bases provide critical haul-outs for sea lions and perches for pelicans and other birds. In the spring, look for cormorant and sea gull chicks. Sea lions give birth on the rocky beaches and coves in late June and early July. These 75-million-year-old sandstone cliffs host the sea caves that draw many visitors to their beauty every year. The cliffs have been fractured by faulting activity along the Rose Canyon Fault System. The fractures are weak and susceptible to wave action and the cracks grow larger over time. The seven major sea caves that have eroded as a result of these fractures are named as follows, from east to west: White Lady (named for its ladylike silhouette), Little Sister, Shopping Cart (named for the lone shopping cart abandoned inside by local high school students, which now supports marine life), Sea Surprise (named for the accumulation of items that wash up regularly here), Arch Cave, Sunny Jim’s Cave (accessible by land through a tunnel dug in the early 1900’s and used to smuggle alcohol and Chinese immigrants), and The Clam Cave (the largest and oldest cave).
Sea lions are found hauled out all over the rocky shores of La Jolla.
a sea lion in a classic pose
Males are larger than females and have a prominent forehead. Females give birth in June and July and juveniles are often seen frolicking near the caves.
a curious seal watches a kayaker
Harbor seals are more often spotted in the water. They prefer to haul out on the sandy beach at the Children’s pool and don’t mix with sea lions. You may spot them cruising close to the beach or watching you from the kelp forests.
prehistoric, graceful fliers
Pelicans can be spotted perched on cliffs or gliding effortlessly in formation. If you see pelicans and other birds diving into the water, look for the fins of dolphins nearby. Often dolphins and larger fish chase a school of bait fish which collect near the surface in defense, only to be attacked from above as well!
gulls become a nuisance when humans feed them
Western Gulls are the most common local bird. There are always a few pairs that raise chicks on the local cliffs in the spring. Watch your food at the beach because these guys will steal it in a heartbeat!
cliff dwellers and deep sea fishers
Cormorants are horrible fliers. They perch and nest on the cliffs above the caves to protect their young from predators. Taking flight is a frantic endeavor, but underwater they are graceful and fast, swimming as deep as 60 feet to catch fish.
stunning patterns on leopard sharks on a sunny day
Leopard sharks are some of La Jolla’s most famous residents. They school in large numbers in the shallow sandy and rocky reef areas when conditions suit them. They grow to about 6′, are completely harmless to humans, and their leopard spots are stunning!
learn the “Stingray Shuffle”!
Stingrays congregate on the sandy flats when the water is warm. They rest on the bottom and if you step on one, it will defend itself with it’s barbed tail. The cut is usually superficial, but an otherwise harmless toxin produces intense pain. The only relief is hot water (go to the Lifeguard tower), or better yet, avoid the problem by shuffling your feet when you wade!
brilliant orange garibaldi
Garibaldi are the California state fish and the brightest creature in the water. They love the rocky reefs near the caves and stake out a small territory which they defend ferociously. You’ll notice that rather than schooling, they tend to be evenly distributed as each claims their spot on the reef.
kelp provides food and shelter for thousands of creatures
Kelp forests support a tremendous amount of life. Kelp is strongly affected by fluctuations in water temperature, preferring colder water. Kelp beds normally grow thick and robust in San Diego but recent warmer-than-normal water temperatures have caused most of our kelp to vanish.
green sea turtle
Eel grass and sea weed attach to the shallow rocks of the rocky reef environment. It is food for many animals and shelter for many more. Eel grass is the favorite food of La Jolla’s resident sea turtle.
Just beyond the kelp forest at the edges of the ecological reserve, we can imagine a hidden environment – the deep marine canyon. Dropping to 600ft within the reserve and even deeper further seaward, the waters in this canyon are cold and nutrient rich. They support abundant marine life and market squid spawn here by the millions annually drawing in halibut, pinnipeds, sharks and other predators to feed. The canyon branches in two arms close to shore which refract Pacific swell and create “dead” zones like the small boat launch at the end of Avenida de la Playa, as well as big surf zones like Black’s Beach.
Kelp forests grow just offshore. In order to reach them, remember not to cross the swim lane. Instead, paddle north from the caves to the 1/2 mile buoy marking the swim lane. You can cross here after scanning for swimmers. Kelp can reach 100ft tall and grows at an astounding rate of 2ft/day. They are not true plants, but brown algae. Kelp attaches itself to the bottom with root-like structures called “holdfasts”. Kelp is vitally important to our oceans because it provides food and shelter for an entire ecosystem. Microscopic organisms and invertebrates grow on kelp leaves, small fish feed on them and hide among the kelp strands. Harbor seals, bigger fish, and California sea lions hunt for food among the kelp. An area with kelp supports 1000 times more life than an area without kelp. The balance is easily upset – over-fishing of sheepshead fish (which eat sea urchins), leads to an overabundance of urchins (which eat kelp holdfasts), and the entire kelp forest community collapses.
San Diego’s water is too cold to support coral growth, but our rocky reefs serve a similar function by providing a solid substrate for plants and animals to attach, as well as abundant hiding places. Eel grass and algae grow abundantly here, providing cover for many organisms and serving as the favorite food of visiting sea turtles. Organisms such as the sea hare have evolved to mimic both the color and the motion of brown algae awash in gentle waves and are well camouflaged. The nooks and crannies and tide pools are an important nursery for juveniles of many species. The most obvious resident, the bright orange garibaldi, stakes out a little piece of real estate and defends it ferociously.
Otherwise known as the “beach”, this is the desert of the ocean. Because the sand is in constant motion due to wave action, animals living here must be specially adapted. Buried safe in the sand are clams, worms, sand dollars and crabs. Predators like stingrays, guitar fish, leopard sharks, and surf perch cruise the surface hunting for them. This, in turn, draws in bigger predators like seals, sea lions, and dolphins. When you paddle along the sandy flats, especially when the bright sun is shining, look all the way to the bottom to see beautiful ripple marks and catch glimpses of sea life.
The MMPA took effect in 1972 to protect all marine mammals. There are many components to the MMPA, but only a few that you need to know and respect in La Jolla. These are good wildlife viewing guidelines for ALL animals, not just mammals.
Don’t alter an animal’s normal behavior. If the sea lions on the rocks start to lift their heads and look at you, you’re too close. If the birds are flying away, you’re too close.
Don’t chase animals. If they move away from you, you’ve already violated Rule 1. Don’t chase them! Curious creatures may approach you. Enjoy the gift, but don’t attempt to get closer.
Don’t encircle animals, or make them feel trapped. Don’t get between mothers and offspring. If you pay attention, you may recognize frantic behavior as an animal swims erratically or looks around frantically. These are good indications that you’re disturbing them, so back away.
Don’t make sudden movements or loud noises. The seals and sea lions that live in La Jolla have become quite used to humans and we are fortunate that we can often observe them quite closely without upsetting them if we are respectful.
